45 minutes inland · Galleries and a hill village
One of the most visited villages on the coast, and worth it if you time it right. The Maeght foundation below, Matisse's chapel ten minutes on at Vence.
14 places in 2 sections
From counters you eat standing up to the tables worth booking a week out.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 35 min by car
Provençal, Iconic · Saint-Paul de Vence · Daily, lunch & dinner
A legendary inn in Saint-Paul de Vence, a Provençal table set beneath Picasso, Matisse and Léger taken in payment across the years. Come for the famous basket of hors d’oeuvres and the setting.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Terrace Dining
Built into the village ramparts with a terrace facing the valley. Book for the last sitting before sunset and ask for a table on the outside edge.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Village Classic
Under the lime tree on the square just inside the gate. Busy and central rather than hidden, but the terrace is genuinely lovely and it runs all day.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Small Rooms
A small place on the western ramparts with a short menu and the same valley view as its bigger neighbours. Easier to get into at short notice.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Old Mill
A converted mill just below the village. No view, but a calm dining room and a kitchen that takes itself seriously. Good when the ramparts are full.
Vence · 55 min by car
Modern French · Closed Wed-Thu
On Place Clemenceau in Vence, the most inventive cooking for miles and plated like it. Small, so book. Lunch is the affordable way in.
Vence · 55 min by car
Italian · Evenings
On the little square in the Vence old town, grilled octopus and properly sized portions. Dinner only, closed Wednesdays.
Vence · 55 min by car
Moroccan · Old Town
Tagines and couscous on Place du Peyra, poured mint tea and honey pastries at the end. A change from four days of Provençal cooking.
Vence · 55 min by car
Tasting Menu · Closed Wed
Father and son, five courses, and the most serious kitchen in Vence. Book, and give it the whole evening.
Vence · 55 min by car
Grill · All Day
On the big square by the gardens, meat over charcoal in front of you and very fair prices. The camembert on the grill is meant for sharing.
Museums, galleries and the buildings worth going inside.
Vence · 10 min from Saint-Paul
Chapel · Check the opening days · Closed some weekdays and in winter, so check before setting off
Matisse spent four years on this chapel at the end of his life and called it his masterpiece, which from a man who painted what he painted is worth taking seriously. It is small, white and almost empty. The whole thing is the light: three windows in blue, green and yellow that move across the floor as the morning goes on, and line drawings in black on white tile. Go before eleven, when the sun is still on the glass, and give it longer than you think you need.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Modern Art Museum
One of the first private modern art foundations in Europe, opened in 1964. Sert designed the building, and Miró, Giacometti and Braque made work for the gardens and courtyards. Go for the sculpture garden as much as the galleries.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Gallery · Open Late
The largest of the Rue Grande galleries and open until eight, so it works after the coaches have gone. Contemporary, colourful and free to walk through.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Gallery · Sculpture
Two floors on Rue Grande, including Picasso plates and a view out over the hills from the upper room. The three who run it will talk properly about the work.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 35 min by car
Provençal, Iconic · Saint-Paul de Vence · Daily, lunch & dinner
A legendary inn in Saint-Paul de Vence, a Provençal table set beneath Picasso, Matisse and Léger taken in payment across the years. Come for the famous basket of hors d’oeuvres and the setting.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Terrace Dining
Built into the village ramparts with a terrace facing the valley. Book for the last sitting before sunset and ask for a table on the outside edge.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Village Classic
Under the lime tree on the square just inside the gate. Busy and central rather than hidden, but the terrace is genuinely lovely and it runs all day.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Small Rooms
A small place on the western ramparts with a short menu and the same valley view as its bigger neighbours. Easier to get into at short notice.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Old Mill
A converted mill just below the village. No view, but a calm dining room and a kitchen that takes itself seriously. Good when the ramparts are full.
Vence · 55 min by car
Modern French · Closed Wed-Thu
On Place Clemenceau in Vence, the most inventive cooking for miles and plated like it. Small, so book. Lunch is the affordable way in.
Vence · 55 min by car
Italian · Evenings
On the little square in the Vence old town, grilled octopus and properly sized portions. Dinner only, closed Wednesdays.
Vence · 55 min by car
Moroccan · Old Town
Tagines and couscous on Place du Peyra, poured mint tea and honey pastries at the end. A change from four days of Provençal cooking.
Vence · 55 min by car
Tasting Menu · Closed Wed
Father and son, five courses, and the most serious kitchen in Vence. Book, and give it the whole evening.
Vence · 55 min by car
Grill · All Day
On the big square by the gardens, meat over charcoal in front of you and very fair prices. The camembert on the grill is meant for sharing.
Vence · 10 min from Saint-Paul
Chapel · Check the opening days · Closed some weekdays and in winter, so check before setting off
Matisse spent four years on this chapel at the end of his life and called it his masterpiece, which from a man who painted what he painted is worth taking seriously. It is small, white and almost empty. The whole thing is the light: three windows in blue, green and yellow that move across the floor as the morning goes on, and line drawings in black on white tile. Go before eleven, when the sun is still on the glass, and give it longer than you think you need.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Modern Art Museum
One of the first private modern art foundations in Europe, opened in 1964. Sert designed the building, and Miró, Giacometti and Braque made work for the gardens and courtyards. Go for the sculpture garden as much as the galleries.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Gallery · Open Late
The largest of the Rue Grande galleries and open until eight, so it works after the coaches have gone. Contemporary, colourful and free to walk through.
Saint-Paul de Vence · 45 min by car
Gallery · Sculpture
Two floors on Rue Grande, including Picasso plates and a view out over the hills from the upper room. The three who run it will talk properly about the work.
Nothing here under that name. Try another word, or choose Everything.
Riviera Séjour
Notes from the coast, now and then. Nothing more.
Thank you, you are in.
