An hour east · Hilltop to harbour
Three stops on one road. The village on its rock in the morning, the exotic garden at the top, then down to a waterfront lunch at Villefranche or Beaulieu.
17 places in 4 sections
From counters you eat standing up to the tables worth booking a week out.
Villefranche · 35 min by train
Iconic Harbour · 🚆 45min
Villefranche-sur-Mer harbour since 1938. The bouillabaisse is the reason to go, proper, labour-intensive, served with rouille and croûtons. A lesson in what Riviera cooking actually means.
Èze · 35 min by car
Hilltop Village · Èze village · Restaurant seasonal
A medieval village stacked on a peak above the sea, cobbled lanes, a cactus garden at the summit and, to mark an occasion, the two star table at La Chèvre d’Or.
Èze · 1 hr east
Two Michelin Stars
Cut into the rock at the top of the village with the sea four hundred metres below. Tasting menus, booked well ahead, and the walk up is steep.
Èze · 1 hr east
Hotel Terrace
The other cliff-edge terrace in the village, a little less formal than its neighbour. Good for lunch or a drink at the end of the afternoon.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Waterfront
Tables on the quay at Villefranche with a short menu and no filler. One of the better waterfront kitchens on this stretch. Closed Wednesdays.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Harbour · Grill
Round in the Darse, the working end of Villefranche harbour, away from the cruise crowds. Whole fish, wood-fired, and a proper terrace.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Marina · All Day
On the marina with valet parking, which on this coast is worth something. Large portions, good ingredients, open through to half eleven. Evening parking is otherwise difficult.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Mediterranean · Closed Mon
On the port at Beaulieu, and unusually for the Riviera it will build you a full vegan menu if you ask. Crispy aubergine is the thing. Book in summer.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
New · Closed Mon
A newer kitchen on the Beaulieu marina, ambitious and doing better cooking than most of the port. Divisive on service, so it is a place to go relaxed.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Family Run · Lunch Only
Open eight until five on weekdays only, closed weekends. Homemade lasagne, a proper burger and a plat du jour. The best value lunch between Nice and Monaco.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Pizza and Pasta · Closed Wed
On Avenue Albert 1er, a long list of pizzas, focaccia brought free with the mains, and a room that fills every night. Reserve. Loud, cheerful, well priced.
How to arrive, and how long to allow.
Villefranche · 30 min by train
Coastal Town · Old town & port · Open access
A painted fishing town around a deep blue bay, a five minute walk to the Plage des Marinières and a harbour front of ochre houses. One of the prettiest short hops on the coast.
Èze · by train and bus
By train, 25 min · TER to Èze-sur-Mer, then bus 83 or the Nietzsche Path
The medieval village perched 400m above the sea, the iconic Riviera postcard. Bus 83 from Èze-sur-Mer station climbs in 15 minutes, or walk the Nietzsche Path up (50 minutes, steep but lovely). The Jardin Exotique at the top is worth the climb.
The free public swims first, then the coast paths, then the clubs if you want a lounger.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Free · Sand and Pebble · Showers
The long public beach at Villefranche, straight down the steps from the station, a mix of sand and pebble and free of the sunbed sellers. Toilets, showers and a big car park. Crowded in late July, otherwise the best free swim on this stretch.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat · 1 hr east
Free · Cove · Showers
Narrow coves on the Cap Ferrat side, five minutes on foot from Saint-Jean, with showers and no café, so buy lunch before you walk in. Beautiful water and rarely busy.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Beach Restaurant
On the sand at Villefranche with a pontoon table if you book far enough ahead. Lunch here, then the walk round to the citadel.
Museums, galleries and the buildings worth going inside.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat · 1 hr east
House and Gardens
A pink villa on the neck of Cap Ferrat with nine gardens around it, built for Béatrice de Rothschild. Buy tickets online and go early, because the coaches arrive mid-morning.
Villefranche · 35 min by train
Iconic Harbour · 🚆 45min
Villefranche-sur-Mer harbour since 1938. The bouillabaisse is the reason to go, proper, labour-intensive, served with rouille and croûtons. A lesson in what Riviera cooking actually means.
Èze · 35 min by car
Hilltop Village · Èze village · Restaurant seasonal
A medieval village stacked on a peak above the sea, cobbled lanes, a cactus garden at the summit and, to mark an occasion, the two star table at La Chèvre d’Or.
Èze · 1 hr east
Two Michelin Stars
Cut into the rock at the top of the village with the sea four hundred metres below. Tasting menus, booked well ahead, and the walk up is steep.
Èze · 1 hr east
Hotel Terrace
The other cliff-edge terrace in the village, a little less formal than its neighbour. Good for lunch or a drink at the end of the afternoon.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Waterfront
Tables on the quay at Villefranche with a short menu and no filler. One of the better waterfront kitchens on this stretch. Closed Wednesdays.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Harbour · Grill
Round in the Darse, the working end of Villefranche harbour, away from the cruise crowds. Whole fish, wood-fired, and a proper terrace.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Marina · All Day
On the marina with valet parking, which on this coast is worth something. Large portions, good ingredients, open through to half eleven. Evening parking is otherwise difficult.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Mediterranean · Closed Mon
On the port at Beaulieu, and unusually for the Riviera it will build you a full vegan menu if you ask. Crispy aubergine is the thing. Book in summer.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
New · Closed Mon
A newer kitchen on the Beaulieu marina, ambitious and doing better cooking than most of the port. Divisive on service, so it is a place to go relaxed.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Family Run · Lunch Only
Open eight until five on weekdays only, closed weekends. Homemade lasagne, a proper burger and a plat du jour. The best value lunch between Nice and Monaco.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Pizza and Pasta · Closed Wed
On Avenue Albert 1er, a long list of pizzas, focaccia brought free with the mains, and a room that fills every night. Reserve. Loud, cheerful, well priced.
Villefranche · 30 min by train
Coastal Town · Old town & port · Open access
A painted fishing town around a deep blue bay, a five minute walk to the Plage des Marinières and a harbour front of ochre houses. One of the prettiest short hops on the coast.
Èze · by train and bus
By train, 25 min · TER to Èze-sur-Mer, then bus 83 or the Nietzsche Path
The medieval village perched 400m above the sea, the iconic Riviera postcard. Bus 83 from Èze-sur-Mer station climbs in 15 minutes, or walk the Nietzsche Path up (50 minutes, steep but lovely). The Jardin Exotique at the top is worth the climb.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Free · Sand and Pebble · Showers
The long public beach at Villefranche, straight down the steps from the station, a mix of sand and pebble and free of the sunbed sellers. Toilets, showers and a big car park. Crowded in late July, otherwise the best free swim on this stretch.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat · 1 hr east
Free · Cove · Showers
Narrow coves on the Cap Ferrat side, five minutes on foot from Saint-Jean, with showers and no café, so buy lunch before you walk in. Beautiful water and rarely busy.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Beach Restaurant
On the sand at Villefranche with a pontoon table if you book far enough ahead. Lunch here, then the walk round to the citadel.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat · 1 hr east
House and Gardens
A pink villa on the neck of Cap Ferrat with nine gardens around it, built for Béatrice de Rothschild. Buy tickets online and go early, because the coaches arrive mid-morning.
Nothing here under that name. Try another word, or choose Everything.
Riviera Séjour
Notes from the coast, now and then. Nothing more.
Thank you, you are in.
