The Guide · An hour east
These two sit on the same road east and make one day together: the village on its rock in the morning, then down to the water for lunch. Èze has two celebrated terraces built into the cliff and very little in between; Villefranche has a whole quay of them and a working harbour round the corner that most visitors never reach. This list covers both, and says which need booking weeks ahead.
Villefranche · 35 min by train
Iconic Harbour · 🚆 45min
Villefranche-sur-Mer harbour since 1938. The bouillabaisse is the reason to go, proper, labour-intensive, served with rouille and croûtons. A lesson in what Riviera cooking actually means.
Èze · 35 min by car
Hilltop Village · Èze village · Restaurant seasonal
A medieval village stacked on a peak above the sea, cobbled lanes, a cactus garden at the summit and, to mark an occasion, the two star table at La Chèvre d’Or.
Èze · 1 hr east
Two Michelin Stars
Cut into the rock at the top of the village with the sea four hundred metres below. Tasting menus, booked well ahead, and the walk up is steep.
Èze · 1 hr east
Hotel Terrace
The other cliff-edge terrace in the village, a little less formal than its neighbour. Good for lunch or a drink at the end of the afternoon.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Waterfront
Tables on the quay at Villefranche with a short menu and no filler. One of the better waterfront kitchens on this stretch. Closed Wednesdays.
Villefranche-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Harbour · Grill
Round in the Darse, the working end of Villefranche harbour, away from the cruise crowds. Whole fish, wood-fired, and a proper terrace.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Marina · All Day
On the marina with valet parking, which on this coast is worth something. Large portions, good ingredients, open through to half eleven. Evening parking is otherwise difficult.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Mediterranean · Closed Mon
On the port at Beaulieu, and unusually for the Riviera it will build you a full vegan menu if you ask. Crispy aubergine is the thing. Book in summer.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
New · Closed Mon
A newer kitchen on the Beaulieu marina, ambitious and doing better cooking than most of the port. Divisive on service, so it is a place to go relaxed.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Family Run · Lunch Only
Open eight until five on weekdays only, closed weekends. Homemade lasagne, a proper burger and a plat du jour. The best value lunch between Nice and Monaco.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer · 1 hr east
Pizza and Pasta · Closed Wed
On Avenue Albert 1er, a long list of pizzas, focaccia brought free with the mains, and a room that fills every night. Reserve. Loud, cheerful, well priced.
Yes, but time it. The village is very small and coaches fill it between mid-morning and mid-afternoon. Arrive early or late and it is a different place.
Yes. The quay in front of the old town is lined with restaurants, and the Darse, the working harbour round the headland, has a couple more with far fewer people.
Riviera Séjour
Notes from the coast, now and then. Nothing more.
Thank you, you are in.
