Half an hour inland · Perfume country
The perfume houses are the reason to come, but the old town above them is the reason to stay. Ochre lanes, a fountain square and a view down the whole valley.
15 places in 4 sections
How to arrive, and how long to allow.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
By train, 1 hr · TER via Cannes-La Bocca, ~€5 each way
Inland, in the hills. The perfume capital of the world. Visit a historic house, Fragonard, Galimard, or Molinard, each runs a tour and lets you compose your own scent. The old town is charming and feels a world away from the coast.
Worth the extra twenty minutes if you have the day.
Gourdon · 25 min from Grasse
Hill Walk · 🚗 30min · Intermediate · 6km · 3.5hr
One of the most dramatically positioned villages in France, at 760m above the gorge. Entirely unlike anything on the coast. Best on a clear day when views extend back to the sea.
Cabris · 15 min from Grasse
Village Inn · Closed Mon-Tue
In the tiny village of Cabris above Grasse, with a terrace looking over miles of country to the sea. Under new ownership and better for it. Also a small hotel.
Cabris · 15 min from Grasse
Terrace · Closed Mon-Tue
A newer, younger room in Cabris with the same enormous view and an easier price. Good for lunch with children.
Cabris · 15 min from Grasse
Set Menu · Village Square
On the well square in Cabris, a well-priced set menu and a kitchen using local produce. Closed Mondays.
Châteauneuf-Grasse · 20 min from Grasse
Seasonal · Closed Tue-Wed
Everything made on site, a menu that changes with what is in season, and a terrace with air conditioning inside for July. The chef comes out to say goodbye.
Châteauneuf-Grasse · 20 min from Grasse
Lunch Only · Weekdays
Husband and wife, weekday lunches only, three or four dishes a day at prices that have not caught up with the rest of the coast. Wheelchair parking outside.
Châteauneuf-Grasse · 20 min from Grasse
Italian · Live Music
A big, cheerful room with live music some evenings and a terrace. Not subtle, and not trying to be. Good veal milanese and easy prices.
The houses, the workshops, and what to book ahead.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Historic Factory
The old works on Boulevard Fragonard, in the town rather than out on the Route de Cannes. Free guided tours, and the shop prices are well below retail.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Perfume Workshop · 2 hr
The two-hour workshop where you build your own scent from base, heart and top notes with a perfumer at your shoulder. Book ahead. Out on the Route de Pégomas, so drive or take the bus.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Estate Visit
A working rose and jasmine estate above the town, open for guided visits. Small groups and hard to book, but the best version of the story if you can get in.
From counters you eat standing up to the tables worth booking a week out.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Cheese and Charcuterie
On Place aux Aires under the parasols. Boards of local cheese and charcuterie with unlimited bread, and you can buy anything you liked on the way out.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Shaded Terrace
Tables under the trees on Place du Lieutenant Morel, a short menu built around the fish of the day. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Small Kitchen
A handful of tables near the cathedral quarter and a chef cooking properly for the price. Reserve, because there is almost no room.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Brunch · Cocktails · Closed Weekends
A decorated terrace on the Boulevard du Jeu de Ballon doing burgers, bowls and cocktails. Closed Saturday and Sunday, which catches people out.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
By train, 1 hr · TER via Cannes-La Bocca, ~€5 each way
Inland, in the hills. The perfume capital of the world. Visit a historic house, Fragonard, Galimard, or Molinard, each runs a tour and lets you compose your own scent. The old town is charming and feels a world away from the coast.
Gourdon · 25 min from Grasse
Hill Walk · 🚗 30min · Intermediate · 6km · 3.5hr
One of the most dramatically positioned villages in France, at 760m above the gorge. Entirely unlike anything on the coast. Best on a clear day when views extend back to the sea.
Cabris · 15 min from Grasse
Village Inn · Closed Mon-Tue
In the tiny village of Cabris above Grasse, with a terrace looking over miles of country to the sea. Under new ownership and better for it. Also a small hotel.
Cabris · 15 min from Grasse
Terrace · Closed Mon-Tue
A newer, younger room in Cabris with the same enormous view and an easier price. Good for lunch with children.
Cabris · 15 min from Grasse
Set Menu · Village Square
On the well square in Cabris, a well-priced set menu and a kitchen using local produce. Closed Mondays.
Châteauneuf-Grasse · 20 min from Grasse
Seasonal · Closed Tue-Wed
Everything made on site, a menu that changes with what is in season, and a terrace with air conditioning inside for July. The chef comes out to say goodbye.
Châteauneuf-Grasse · 20 min from Grasse
Lunch Only · Weekdays
Husband and wife, weekday lunches only, three or four dishes a day at prices that have not caught up with the rest of the coast. Wheelchair parking outside.
Châteauneuf-Grasse · 20 min from Grasse
Italian · Live Music
A big, cheerful room with live music some evenings and a terrace. Not subtle, and not trying to be. Good veal milanese and easy prices.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Historic Factory
The old works on Boulevard Fragonard, in the town rather than out on the Route de Cannes. Free guided tours, and the shop prices are well below retail.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Perfume Workshop · 2 hr
The two-hour workshop where you build your own scent from base, heart and top notes with a perfumer at your shoulder. Book ahead. Out on the Route de Pégomas, so drive or take the bus.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Estate Visit
A working rose and jasmine estate above the town, open for guided visits. Small groups and hard to book, but the best version of the story if you can get in.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Cheese and Charcuterie
On Place aux Aires under the parasols. Boards of local cheese and charcuterie with unlimited bread, and you can buy anything you liked on the way out.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Shaded Terrace
Tables under the trees on Place du Lieutenant Morel, a short menu built around the fish of the day. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Small Kitchen
A handful of tables near the cathedral quarter and a chef cooking properly for the price. Reserve, because there is almost no room.
Grasse · 35 min by bus
Brunch · Cocktails · Closed Weekends
A decorated terrace on the Boulevard du Jeu de Ballon doing burgers, bowls and cocktails. Closed Saturday and Sunday, which catches people out.
Nothing here under that name. Try another word, or choose Everything.
Riviera Séjour
Notes from the coast, now and then. Nothing more.
Thank you, you are in.
